Wednesday, January 04, 2006

"I Prefer the Penrith RSL"

WENCESLAS SQUARE, PRAGUE: Coming to you live and direct from what seems to be the most popular tourist spot in Europe, at least from what Kate and I have seen. After weeks and weeks of virtually no tourists, certainly outside the Kremlin and the Hermitage, everywhere we look somebody seems to be peering into a map, or videotaping a brick wall or thumbing through a guide book.

I was a little skeptical of Prague at first. I mean it's reputation had preceeded it and I'd sort of figured that it had been given over to the tourist hordes because it was the most accessible and the closest of the Eastern European capitals. And we really have seen enough medieval vintage Old Towns to satisfy even the most ardent medieval revivalist. But with its gorgeous castle perched above the hill, looking down regally across the river through seemingly endless, winding cobble stone streets, I've been forced to jettison my 'I'm too cool for this kind of thing' hat and say that Prague truly is one of the most beautiful cities I've ever seen.

We spent most of the first day just wandering down various laneways, checking out Wenceslas Square and the Old Town and finding a bookstore where we could get a guide book. Then it was time to retire to the local for a couple of pints and a plate of pork.

Day two we caught a tram across the river and up the hill to check out some of the sights of Hrdancy. We visited an old convenant and then realised that everything we'd come to see had shut for lunch. So we cruised over to the castle. The view was incredible. I mean the grey clouds kind of put a limit on the visibility but other than that Prague's multi-spired skyline really does take your breath away. Inside the castle there was St. Vitus Cathedral with some of the most amazing stained glass I've ever seen and a few other buildings of note.



Prague City Skyline

There's also a thin alleyway of shops that houses the former home of one F. Kafka.

Which brings me to my next point of interest. This morning we walked across the famed Charles Bridge and visited the Franz Kafka museum which was first established on Barcelona, then toured to New York, before settling in his home town. It provided a very postmodern stroll not only through Kafka's town but also through his works. There was one room, for instance, that consisted of nothing but sheer black filing cabinet drawers from floor to ceiling featuring the names of some of his more famous protagonists. There was a frightening exhibit for "In the Penal Colony".

Then we walked back across the bridge to take a walking tour of the Jewish part of the Old Town and take in a few Franz Kafka sights. Our guide was excellent and filled us in on various parts of the Jewish mythology that animates the history of the area.

Tonight we're off, at the recommendation of our French friends, to check out Motzart's "Don Giovanni" as performed by puppets.

And if you're curious the title of this entry refers to the Rugby League player who on a visit to this cultural smorgasbord of a city expressed disdain that it was devoid of TAB's. Rugby League, you gotta love it, it's the game they play in coal mining heaven.

paka

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